Monsoon Ayurveda in Kerala: why the rains are the season

Most travellers avoid Kerala in the monsoon. Ayurveda does the opposite. Its tradition holds that the cool, moist, dust-free air of the rains opens the body to herbal oils and treatment, and that the body needs extra care in this season. Kerala's own tourism department describes the monsoon as the best time for rejuvenation therapies, and traditional performers have long had their treatments in the rains.

There are practical reasons too. Temperatures stay mild, the state is green and quiet, and the centres themselves are calmer, with more of the doctors' time to go round.

June

The southwest monsoon usually reaches Kerala in early June. Heavy bursts, then sunny breaks.

July to mid-August

Peak rains, and the month of Karkidakam: the classic time for a course of treatment.

Late August to September

Rain eases; a good compromise if you want some dry days.

In Kerala homes, Karkidakam has long been a month to slow down. Families cook karkidaka kanji, a rice gruel simmered with herbs and spices, and many Hindu households read the Ramayana each evening, which is why it's also called Ramayana masam. Farm work used to pause in the heaviest rains, and people took the chance to rest and look after themselves.

Ayurveda centres build on this with Karkidaka chikitsa: courses of oil massage, herbal steam, kizhi and a light diet, usually one to three weeks long. They're gentler than full Panchakarma and a good introduction if you're new to Ayurveda. The month follows the Malayalam calendar and shifts a little each year, so ask your centre when its programme starts.

• Rain in bursts. Downpours for an hour or a night, then breaks. Some days are grey from morning to night.
• Damp everything. Clothes take days to dry, and paper goes limp. Bring quick-dry clothes and zip-lock bags.
• A slower, inward stay. Walks and yoga move indoors; the treatments, rest and food become the whole day.
• No sea swimming. Kerala's seas are rough in the monsoon, and beaches fly red flags. Swim in the pool, if there is one.
• Power cuts and leeches in hill areas. Centres have backup power; bring a torch and socks for walks.

Of the 26 Ayurveda retreats we list in Kerala, 23 are at their best in the monsoon months by our research, and 17 of those publish a Panchakarma programme. They range from in-patient Ayurveda hospitals to beach resorts.

• The doctor matters most. Ask who will see you, their qualification (BAMS at least), and how often you'll see them.
• Hospital or resort. Hospitals are simpler, cheaper and more clinical; resorts add comfort and space to walk.
• Coast or inland. Beach centres near Kovalam and Varkala are breezy, with rough seas in the rains; inland centres near Thrissur and Palakkad are quieter.
• Kerala Tourism's classification. The state classifies Ayurveda centres that apply, and lists them on its site.

Read Panchakarma explained before you choose a programme, and browse Ayurveda retreats in Kerala with their best months and minimum stays.

Kerala has four international airports: Kochi, Thiruvananthapuram, Kozhikode and Kannur. Trains run along the coast through Thrissur, Ernakulam and Kollam. Leave a buffer day either side of your stay, because monsoon flights and roads can be delayed.

• Quick-dry, loose cotton clothes you don't mind staining with oil.
• A light rain jacket or poncho and a sturdy umbrella.
• Waterproof sandals and a spare pair of socks.
• Zip-lock bags for documents, phone and books.
• Insect repellent and a small torch.

Our packing guide has the full list.