Yoga retreat or yoga teacher training: which one is for you?

We list 77 retreats where yoga is a main focus. 29 of them take stays of two nights or fewer and let you arrive any day, so a weekend of yoga is easy to fit in. Teacher trainings are a bigger commitment of time, money and body.

• You want a break that leaves you better rested, not more tired.
• You're new to yoga, coming back after a gap, or recovering from an injury.
• You have a week or less of leave.
• You want yoga alongside other things: Ayurveda, walks, the beach, time alone.

Rishikesh has the widest choice, from ashrams with a full timetable to riverside boutique stays: see yoga retreats in Rishikesh and across India.

• You want to teach, now or one day, and need a recognised starting qualification.
• You want to understand the philosophy, anatomy and method behind your practice, with exams to keep you honest.
• You can give about a month to it, full time, and your body is used to daily practice.
• You're happy with a fixed timetable that starts before dawn and runs into the evening.

A typical day on a 200-hour course: a two-hour asana and pranayama class at dawn, then lectures on philosophy and anatomy, teaching practice in small groups, a second asana class in the afternoon, and chanting or meditation in the evening. 14 of the retreats we list publish a teacher training course; where they give a length it runs 16 to 42 days, most often about 28. Traditional ashram courses, such as the Sivananda Teachers' Training Course, add karma yoga (seva) and a strict routine.

• Yoga Alliance (US-based) keeps a registry of schools (RYS) and teachers (RYT). A 200-hour course from a registered school lets you register as an RYT 200. Many studios abroad, and some in Indian cities, ask for it.
• Yoga Certification Board (Ministry of Ayush) certifies yoga professionals in India at levels such as Yoga Protocol Instructor, Yoga Wellness Instructor, Yoga Teacher and Evaluator, and Yoga Master, through its own assessment.
• Traditional schools such as the Bihar School of Yoga and the Sivananda ashrams issue their own certificates, valued for their lineage.

No certificate makes someone a good teacher on its own. Ask schools what their course is recognised by, and ask the studios where you'd like to teach what they look for.

1. Who are the lead trainers, how long have they taught, and will they teach most of the hours themselves?
2. How many students are on a course, and how many teachers?
3. What does a day look like, hour by hour, and how many contact hours are there in total?
4. Which certificate do I get, and which body recognises it? Can I see the school's registration?
5. What is included in the fee: room, meals, books, exams? Is the room shared?
6. What happens if I'm injured or ill and miss days? What is the refund policy?
7. Can I speak to someone who did the course last year?

Be wary of schools that promise a certificate whatever your attendance, list trainers without any background, or push you to pay in full on WhatsApp the same day.